I wont pretend to be an expert on fuel injection and highly reccomend you to go to:

 http://www.emeraldm3d.com/ems.htm

As it has a very good idiots guide to fuel injection and components.  This is worth a read even if you are going for carbs as it compares the differences between 2d and 3d mapping.

Fuel Tank

One of the immediate problems you will face is the fuel tank.  Firstly you will need a return line and secondly you will need it to be baffled or fit some form of catch tank.  You could get away with not having a catch tank if you keep your tank above 1/4 full as the shape of the Escort tank should doesn't leave the fuel much room for slopping about.

Throttle Bodies

Throttle bodies are actually very simple, although they cost as much (or more) than the more complicated twin carbs for reasons unknown to me?  Each throttle bodie has a butterfly/choke to control the amount or air flowing into the engine.  The butterflys/chokes are connected by a linkage the attaches to your throttle cable.  They also have a whole for the injector that squirts fuel into the engine when triggered by the ECU.  The injectors are connected by a fuel rail which connects to a pressure regulator.  That’s about it really, apart from the throttle position sensor (TPS) that tells the ECU whether you are accelerating, or not.

There are companies such as Jenvey who can sell you complete sets of throttle bodies for your ZETEC.  They mount the same way (and same pattern) as webber twin carbs to a manifold (available from Burton Power and the like).   Most throttle bodies prices will not include linkages and fuel rails which will add £150+ to the price.  You can also get throttle bodies the mount direct for to the head of the engine, although I have not seen these for the ZETEC yet.

However, in order to save about £700 you can use second hand motorbike throttle bodies.  These work exactly the same way, but they are designed to mount using silicon tubing.  So all you need to mount these to your engine is a base plate in the shape of the original inlet flange with 4 tubes welded to it and some silicon tube.  A complete (including TPS, fuel rail, injectors etc) set of motorbike throttle bodies can be bought for as little as £40 from e-bay or breakers.  All you need is an aftermarket ECU such as the Emerald M3d and you are sorted, the whole lot can be done for less than £1000.

Kawasaki ZX636/RZX6RRB1 throttle bodies bought for £40 off e-bay.

These Kawasaki throttle bodies are complete with injectors, fuel rail, pressure regulator, TPS and have a steeper motor and secondary butterflies if I want to use them (chances are they will be removed).  The original motorbike had 130 bhp so there is a good chance the injectors will be fine if supplied with a bit more fuel pressure, they are a standard size so can be changed easily.

Some companies offer their own induction system (single throttle body, sensors, manifold etc) to replace the standard one.  You will still need an aftermarket ECU for most of them, and these work out more expensive than the motorbike throttle bodies and give less power.

Fuel Pressure Regulator

For EFI aplications you will need a Fuel Pressure regulator (FPR).  These can be removed from other cars (Cosworths)at scrap yards or bought from webber.  Do not confuse these with fuel accumulators found on MFI cars such as the 2.8 Capri, they do a different job.  The idea of the FPR is to keep the fuel pressure in the fuel rail constant.  Therefore if each injector opens for the same amount of time they will all squirt the same amount of fuel into the engine.  If more fuel is needed the ECU will either hold the injector open longer, or you can increase the fuel pressure in the regulator.

The FPR will have a return line for the excess fuel that need to be rooted back to your fuel tank.  Some people fit a fuel swirl pot to remove the air from the returning fuel, although this is not really needed for road cars.

Engine Managment for Non-Millionaires

For those of you who are not made of money there is the option of the Megasquirt ECU and EDIS combination.

For those wanting to run on carbs you can use the megajolt ecu.  The magejolt work in conjunction with the EDIS4 module that is found on late fuel injected 1.6 CVH engined Escort and Orions.  It uses the standard ZETEC flywheel sensor and coild pack to give full 2d ignition mapping.  The magsjolt costs in the region of £70 which is significantly cheaper than other ECUs on the market.  For those of you who are handy with a soldering iron you can buy the megajolt in kit form for around £40.

The megasquirt ECU is currently only available to run fuel injection only, however the megasquirt 2 ECU will soon be availble that can do both fule and ignition (3d).  It comes in kit form, but can be bought made up for those not handy with a soldering iron.  Like the magajolt, the megasquirt 2 uses the EDIS unit as part of ignition control.

You can also buy built megasquirt 1 ECU that have been modified to run with the EDIS module.

What you can do is use a modified megasquirt 1 unit with EDIS to run your ignition for you carbs.  Then you can save your pennies for some aftermarket throttle bodies, or use motorbike throttle bodies at a later date without having to change ECUs.  You can buy built megasquirt 1 ECU, modified to use the EDIS module for around £170.  Again this is a significant saving on all other aftermarket ECUs.

For more information look at:

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

And join this UK Yahoo Group (please make sure you tell them that you heard about it from this website):

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirt_uk/

In whatever form the megasquirt/megajolt ECU dramatically reduce the costs of a ZETEC conversion.

A good UK supplier of all variants of the megasquirt is Bill Shurvinton who can be e-mail at:

bill@shurvinton.fsworld.co.uk

Please mention this website when contacting him.

Below is a megajolt map for a 2ltr ZETEC which will be a good starting point for would be DIY tuners.

RPMRange = 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 4000 5000 6000
MAPRange = 50 58 65 72 79 86 93 100
SparkTimeMAP0 = 10 14 17 21 23 28 30 34
SparkTimeMAP1 = 10 14 16 20 22 28 30 34
SparkTimeMAP2 = 10 13 15 19 21 27 29 33
SparkTimeMAP3 = 10 13 14 18 20 26 29 33
SparkTimeMAP4 = 10 12 13 17 19 25 28 32
SparkTimeMAP5 = 10 11 12 16 18 24 28 31
SparkTimeMAP6 = 10 10 11 15 17 23 27 30
SparkTimeMAP7 = 10 10 10 15 17 22 27 30
TriggAngle = 23
CrankAngle = 5
CrankTiming = Trigg return
HoldCycles = 0
IgnitionOutput = Normal

[RevLimiters]
SoftRevLimRPM = 7100
SoftRevLimAngle = 5
SoftRevLimMaxTime = 10
SoftRevLimCoolTime = 1
HardRevLimRPM = 7200

ZVH

There is also the ZVH option - This is a ZETEC bottom end with a CVH head.  This is an easy way of converting your ZETEC for a turbo aplication using the head from an RS Turbo.  This will require piston work to lower the compression and I am pretty sure it will alow you to use the RS Turbo ECU.  Unless you are turboing the car this isn't really an option though.  I'm pretty sure that if you have a ZVH you do not need an aftermarket ECU, can anyone confirm?

You can also get RS Turbo inlet manifolds that have been adapted to fit the ZETEC head.  You will still need an aftermarket ECU (capable of runing a turbo engine) and the compression lowering.

There are companies in the US that offer a supercharger conversion for about £2000.  These still only give you the same power as throttle boddie conversion, but more tourqe (in the original car).  For a rear wheel drive conversion you would need to use an aftermarket ECU any way which should free up more power so this is an option.  This sounds like a cheap way to a reliable 200+ bhp.